Overview & Highlights
Shey Phoksundo Lake lies at an elevation of 3,611 meters (11,847 feet) above sea level within Shey Phoksundo National Park in the Dolpo district of western Nepal. The lake spans roughly 4.9 square kilometers and reaches a maximum depth of 145 meters, making it the deepest lake in Nepal. Its striking turquoise hue results from fine glacial sediments suspended in the water, which scatter sunlight in a way that creates an almost luminous appearance.
Highlights of the area include:
• The Phoksundo Waterfall, cascading 167 meters from a cliff above the lake’s western shore.
• Ringmo Village, a traditional Tibetan‑style settlement where Bonpo and Buddhist practitioners coexist.
• Ancient Shey Gompa (Crystal Monastery) perched on a ridge overlooking the lake, dating back to the 11th century.
• Rich biodiversity, including blue sheep, Himalayan tahr, musk deer, and the elusive snow leopard.
• A profound sense of isolation; the Dolpo region sees fewer than 5,000 foreign visitors annually, preserving its cultural authenticity.
Best Time to Visit
The ideal windows for a trek to Shey Phoksundo Lake are pre‑monsoon (late April to early June) and post‑monsoon (mid‑September to early November). During these periods:
• Daytime temperatures at the lake range from 5 °C to 15 °C, while night temperatures can drop to ‑5 °C in early spring and late autumn.
• Skies are generally clear, offering stunning views of the surrounding peaks, including Kanjiroba (6,883 m) and the Dolpo Himalayas.
• Trail conditions are stable; snow melt has cleared high passes, yet monsoon rains have not yet made paths slippery.
Visiting during the monsoon (July–August) brings heavy rainfall, leech‑infested trails, and a high risk of landslides. Winter (December–February) brings extreme cold, frequent snowfall, and many teahouses close, making the trek suitable only for experienced high‑altitude adventurers with proper gear.
How to Get There
Step 1: Reach Nepalgunj
• Fly from Tribhuvan International Airport (Kathmandu) to Nepalgunj Airport (approx. 1 hour 15 minutes). Flights operate daily with airlines such as Buddha Air, Yeti Airlines, and Shree Airlines. Ticket prices range from USD 110–150 one‑way.
Step 2: Fly to Juphal (Dolpo Airport)
• From Nepalgunj, take a short domestic flight to Juphal (approx. 45 minutes). This is the gateway to Dolpo. Flights are less frequent; expect 2–3 flights per week depending on season. Cost is roughly USD 80–120 one‑way.
Step 3: Trek to Shey Phoksundo Lake
• The trek from Juphal to the lake typically takes 3–4 days (approx. 45 km) via the following route:
• Juphal → Dunai (2–3 hours, 12 km, 2,100 m). Dunai is the district headquarters with basic lodges and a police checkpoint.
• Dunai → Ankhe (4–5 hours, 14 km, 2,900 m). Pass through pine forests and cross the Suligad River.
• Ankhe → Ringmo (5–6 hours, 12 km, 3,600 m). Ascend gradually; the first views of the turquoise lake appear near the end of this leg.
• Ringmo → Shey Phoksundo Lake (short 30‑minute walk along the lakeshore).
Alternative longer routes start from Jumla (flight from Kathmandu to Jumla, then a 7‑day trek via the Jumla‑Dolpo trail) or from Simikot in Humla for those seeking a more extended remote trek.
Permits & Fees (as of 2024):
• Shey Phoksundo National Park entry permit: USD 30 per person (foreigners).
• Trekkers’ Information Management System (TIMS) card: USD 10 (or USD 20 if obtained via a trekking agency).
• Special Dolpo Restricted Area permit: USD 20 per week (required for all trekkers entering Dolpo).
• Guide fee: USD 25–30 per day (mandatory for restricted areas).
• Porter fee: USD 15–20 per day (optional but highly recommended).
Cash in Nepali rupees is essential; there are no ATMs beyond Nepalgunj. Carry enough small bills for purchases in villages.
Top Attractions & Activities
Phoksundo Lake Itself
• Photography: Sunrise and sunset paint the lake in shades of emerald, sapphire, and gold. A polarizing filter enhances the turquoise contrast.
• Kayaking/Boating: Small wooden boats can be hired from Ringmo for a tranquil paddle; however, motorized boats are prohibited to preserve the ecosystem.
Phoksundo Waterfall
• Located about 2 km west of the lake, the waterfall plunges 167 m into a misty gorge. A short trail leads to a viewing platform; the spray creates rainbows on sunny days.
Ringmo Village
• Explore traditional stone houses, prayer wheels, and the Bonpo Monastery (the oldest Bon monastery in Nepal, dating to the 10th century). Engage with locals to learn about yak herding, barley farming, and ancient shamanic practices.
Shey Gompa (Crystal Monastery)
• A short hike (approx. 2 hours) from Ringmo leads to this cliff‑side monastery. The interior houses ancient thangkas, a crystal relic said to give the monastery its name, and panoramic vistas of the lake and surrounding peaks.
Wildlife Watching
• Early morning walks along the lake’s northern shore often yield sightings of blue sheep (bharal) grazing on steep slopes. With luck, you may spot Himalayan griffon vultures, golden eagles, or even the elusive snow leopard tracks.
Cultural Experiences
• Participate in a butter tea ceremony with a local family.
• Attend a masked dance during the annual Dolpo festival (usually held in late summer).
• Learn to make tsampa (roasted barley flour) and try shaping it into edible balls.
Where to Stay
Teahouses & Guesthouses
• Ringmo: Offers the most facilities near the lake. Rooms are simple, with twin beds, shared bathrooms, and communal dining. Expect to pay USD 8–12 per night per person.
• Dunai: Slightly lower altitude, more options. Rooms cost USD 6–10; meals are extra.
• Juphal: Basic lodges for trekkers arriving/departing; USD 5–8 per night.
Camping
• Many trekkers choose to camp near the lakeshore for an immersive experience. Designated camping areas exist near Ringmo; you must bring your own tent, sleeping bag (rated to ‑10 °C), and stove. Camping fees are nominal (USD 2–3 per night) if you use a registered agency.
Homestays
• In Ringmo and nearby villages, families offer homestay experiences. This provides deeper cultural interaction and home‑cooked meals. Prices range from USD 15–20 per night, including dinner and breakfast.
Note: Electricity is sporadic; most teahouses rely on solar panels for lighting. Charge devices during daylight hours.
Local Cuisine
The diet in Dolpo reflects Tibetan influences and the high‑altitude agricultural base:
• Dal Bhat: Lentil soup with rice, served with vegetable curry and pickles. The staple meal for trekkers; provides carbs and protein.
• Momo: Steamed or fried dumplings filled with yak meat, vegetables, or cheese. Often accompanied by a spicy tomato‑based chutney.
• Thukpa: Hearty noodle soup with vegetables or meat, perfect for chilly evenings.
• Butter Tea (Suja): Salty tea churned with yak butter, providing essential calories and warmth at altitude.
• Tsampa: Roasted barley flour mixed with butter tea to form a dense, energy‑rich dough; eaten as a quick snack or meal supplement.
• Yak Cheese (Chhurpi): Hard, chewy cheese made from yak milk, available in smoked or plain varieties.
• Buckwheat Bread (Kodo ko Roti): Flatbread served with soups or stews.
Meals in teahouses typically cost USD 4–7 per dish. Always opt for freshly cooked food; avoid raw salads unless you are certain of water purity.
Travel Tips
• Acclimatization: Spend at least one night at 2,500 m (e.g., in Nepalgunj or Juphal) before ascending above 3,000 m. Consider a rest day in Dunai or Ankhe to reduce AMS risk.
• Guides & Porters: Hiring a licensed guide is mandatory for the Dolpo Restricted Area. Guides also aid navigation, cultural interpretation, and emergency response.
• Health: Carry a basic medical kit (including diamox for altitude sickness, rehydration salts, bandages, and antiseptic). The nearest health post is in Dunai; serious cases require evacuation to Nepalgunj or Kathmandu via helicopter (costly; ensure travel insurance covers high‑altitude rescue).
• Gear: Waterproof hiking boots, layered clothing (thermal base, fleece, down jacket), sun hat, gloves, and a sturdy backpack (30‑45 L). A sleeping bag rated to ‑10 °C is essential if camping.
• Water: All water sources should be treated (filter, chlorine tablets, or UV purifier). Boiling for at least 3 minutes is reliable.
• Connectivity: Mobile coverage is spotty; Nepal Telecom has limited service in Juphal and Dunai. Consider renting a satellite phone for emergencies.
• Cultural Respect: Dress modestly (shoulders and knees covered) when visiting monasteries. Remove shoes before entering prayer rooms. Ask permission before photographing people.
• Leave No Trace: Pack out all non‑biodegradable waste. Use designated toilets where available; otherwise, bury human waste at least 60 m from water sources.
• Budgeting: A moderate‑budget trek (guide, porter, teahouse lodging, meals, permits) averages USD 45–55 per day. Luxury options (private rooms, hot showers) can push daily costs to USD 80+.
• Timing: Start daily treks early (around 6 am) to avoid afternoon clouds and maximize daylight for photography.
Nearby Destinations
• Shey Gompa: As mentioned, the crystal monastery offers a spiritual side‑trip and excellent views of the lake.
• Dho Tarap Valley: A few days’ trek north of Ringmo, this high‑altitude valley features traditional Tibetan villages, ancient cave dwellings, and stunning vistas of the Kangchung massif.
• Mount Kanjiroba Base Camp: For experienced climbers, a route from the lake leads to the base camp of Kanjiroba (6,883 m), offering a challenging alpine expedition.
• Rara Lake: Nepal’s largest lake lies further west in the Mugu region; accessible via a multi‑day trek from Dolpo, it presents another turquoise gem worth visiting.
• Shey Phoksundo National Park’s Wildlife Reserve: The park’s upper zones harbor habitats for the Himalayan black bear, red panda, and various pheasant species.
• Jomsom & Mustang: If time allows, extend your journey southward to the Kali Gandaki valley, explore the ancient kingdom of Lo Mustang, and visit the famous Muktinath temple.
Experience the magic of Shey Phoksundo Lake on your next Nepal adventure.
